Search This Blog

Sunday, December 12, 2010

How to Determine Electric Power Consumption of Appliances

By Andy Pasquesi, eHow Contributor
updated: May 6, 2010
Appliances with remote controls consume more electricity than you might expect.
When calculating an appliance's energy consumption, there are two types of power expenditures to consider: running power and standby power. Running power refers to the energy consumed while the appliance is in use. Standby power refers to the energy consumed while the appliance is turned off yet is still plugged into the wall. For televisions, cable boxes, stereos and other appliances to receive the "On" signal from a remote control, a small amount of electricity must be continually drawn from the outlet to power a small internal circuit to act as a receiver. Likewise, a microwave needs to consume electricity to power a circuit that "senses" when you first push the "Set Time" button. Therefore, total power consumption is defined as "[running power] x [time spent in running mode] + [standby power] x [time appliance is plugged into wall while idle]."
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions
1
Look for the appliance's wattage rating during use. If the appliance uses an adapter to plug into the wall, this information is usually printed on the adapter's housing. If the appliance plugs directly into an electrical socket, you may be able to find the wattage printed on either the back of the appliance or on a small tag attached its power cord. Otherwise, consult the appliance's manual or the manufacturer's website for technical specifications.
2
Multiply the wattage by the time the appliance is running, in seconds. This will give you the total energy consumption, in Joules (J). For example, if a 400 W appliance runs for two hours (7200 seconds), then the total energy consumed equals 400 watts times 7200 seconds, which is 2.8 megajoules (MJ).
3
Work out the appliance's average standby power consumption. There are tables online that show the average standby powers of several different types of appliances.
4
Multiply the average standby power rating by the amount of time the appliance spends idle while plugged into the wall, in seconds. For example, if an appliance is plugged into the wall continuously (i.e. 24 hours per day) and used for two hours per day, the idle time for each day would equal "[24 hours - 2 hours] x [3600 seconds in an hour]," which equals 79,200 seconds. If that appliance had a standby power of 3.06 watts, the total standby energy consumed for that day would be "[79200 seconds] x [3.06 J/s]" or 242 kJ.
5
Add the running energy consumption (from Step 2) to the standby energy consumption (from Step 4) to determine the total energy consumption of the appliance during a given time period.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

How to Calculate Electric Costs - Energy 101

from eHOW.com
By njss  eHow Member
User-Submitted Article
How much electrical energy you consume is based on connected watts and hours of use. In order to determine how much it costs to operate any electric appliance or light you must first determine your actual unit energy costs in kilowatt-hours (kWh). This is a simple process.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions

Things You'll Need:
·         Electric Bill
·         Calculator
·         Note Pad

Problem 1 - What is my unit cost in kWh?

1. Total bill amount is $93.97
2. Total kWh (kilowatt hours) consumed 1,038 kWh
3. Total Cost $93.97 ÷ 1038 kWh = $.09053 per kWh

This is an important concept. You must know how much you could save by replacing inefficient electric appliances with more efficient ones. You may even find it interesting to know how much it costs to operate units you already have. Sometimes it is not worth upgrading, and in other instances you can't afford not to make the change.

If you can't figure out what your unit costs are, and don't know how energy works, effective decisions are impossible to make. Now that you know how to figure out your kWh costs, let's try a practical problem.
2
Problem 2 - A 100-watt light bulb that is on 10-hours a day for 30 days. How much energy will it use?

· 10 hours per day x 10 days = 300 hours (energy is all about time of operation)
· 300 Hours x 100 Watts = 30,000 watt hours (energy is also about connected load or Watts)
· A kilowatt (kW) is 1000 watts
· 30,000 watt hours ÷ 1000 watts = 30 kilowatt hours (kWh as on the electric bill)
3
Problem 3 - How much did it cost to operate that lamp?

· 30 kWh x $.09053 per kWh = $2.72 cost of operation
4
Problem 4 - How much would I save if I replaced the 100-Watt light bulb with a 60-Watt light bulb that would produce the same amount of light energy?

· 100-Watt original light - 60-Watt Replacement light = 40-Watt reduction
· 300 Hours of operation (Problem 1) x 40-Watt Reduction = 12000-Watts saved
· 12000-Watts hours saved ÷ 1000 Watts = 12 kWh
· 12 kWh x $.09053 (Problem 1) = $1.09 savings
· $1.09 Savings ÷ $2.72 Original Cost of operation = .40 x 100 = 40%
5
Problem 5 - The 100-Watt bulb has a life expectancy of 1,000 hours. How much will it cost to burn the bulb for 1,000 hours?

· 100 Watts x 1000 Hours = 100,000 watt hours
· 100,000 Watt hours ÷ 1000 Watts = 100 kWh
· 100 kWh x $.09053 per kWh = $9.53
6
Problem 6 - The 60-Watt bulb has a life expectancy of 4,000 hours. How much will it cost to operate during its life?

· 60 Watts x 4,000 Hours = 240,000 watt hours
· 240,000 watt hours ÷ 1000 watts = 240 kWh
· 240 kWh x $.09053 per kWh = $21.72
7
Problem 7 - How much can I reduce my energy costs by replacing the 100-watt lamp with the 60-watt lamp?

· 4,000 hours (60-watt lamp life) ÷ 1,000 hours (100-watt lamp life) = 4
· $9.53 100-Watt life cost x 4 = $38.12 cost of operating 4,000 hours of 100-watt bulbs
· $38.12 cost of equivalent 100-Watt operation - $21.72 cost of 60 Watt life = $16.40 total life time savings
· $16.40 life time savings ÷ $38.12 4,000 hour cost of 100-Watt bulb = 43%
8
Problem 8 - The 100-Watt lamp costs $1.25 each, and the 60-Watt lamp costs $15.00. Can I still save money?

· 4 100-watt lamps x $1.25 each lamp = $5.00
· $15.00 60-Watt cost - $5.00 cost of 4 100-Watt lamps = $10.00 additional lamp cost
· $16.40 life time savings - $10.00 additional lamp cost = $6.40 net savings
· $6.40 net energy savings ÷ $32.12 equivalent 100-watt lamp energy cost = 20% net energy reduction


Tips & Warnings
·         The cost of energy consumption has three basic factors: 1. Hours of operation 2. Unit (kWh) cost of energy 3. Connected load (Watts)
·         Energy conservation is about 3 additional factors: 1. Load Delta - the difference between the original load (Watts) and the reduced load (Watts) 2. Hour Delta - the difference between the hours of operation of the original load, and the hours of operation for the reduced or, more efficient load. 3. Cost Delta - the equipment cost difference between the equivalent numbers of items needed to do the job and the number of more efficient items needed to do the same amount of work.
·         Every time we purchase a product that will consume energy we have a choice to make. Sometimes the cost of the more efficient product is many times more than it will save making it a bad choice, especially if you consider energy savings as the only criteria. There will be other times when picking one product over another can save many times the cost of the product you purchase.


Tuesday, December 7, 2010

How to Monitor Electricity Consumption

From ehow.com
By Maerie Claire, eHow Contributor


Electrical consumption is the use of power or energy by electrical devices. By monitoring electrical consumption you can begin to reduce the amount of electricity you use. This practice is known as energy conservation. Conserving energy is good for the planet and saves you money. Energy consumption is measured in kilowatt hours (kWh). You pay a certain amount of money per kilowatt hour. This amount can fluctuate depending on current market trends. Monitoring your electricity consumption is easy and will only cost a few minutes of your time.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions
Monitoring Daily Electricity Consumption
1
Unplug all electrical devices in your home that are not used on a regular basis. For example a hair dryer is only used when necessary, whereas a refrigerator is in use at all times. You do not want any appliances kicking on without your knowledge during the monitoring process.
2
Locate your electric meter. This is generally outside, on the exterior wall of your home. Notice the wheel that is spinning around on the meter.
3
Time how many seconds it takes for the electric meter wheel to complete an entire rotation. There should be a starting point marker on the wheel which you can use to mark the start of the rotation. If it takes less than 20 seconds for the wheel to complete a rotation then time how long it takes the wheel to rotate 3 times, and then divide that number by 3 to get a more accurate measure.
4
Look for a number that is on the face of the meter. It should look something like Kh=3. Whatever the number is following the "=" sign is the number of watt hours you are consuming per rotation.
5
Calculate the number of watt hours your house is consuming each minute. For example if the meter completed a full rotation in 1 minute and your meter face states Kh=3, then you are using 3 watt hours every minute.
6
Multiply the number of watt hours per minute by 60 to calculate the watt hours used each hour. Multiple that number by 24 to determine the number of watt hours used in a day.
7
Divide the number of watt hours used per day by 1000 to determine hour many kWh or Kilowatt hours you are using each day.
8
Look at your last electric bill or contact your electric company to determine how much you pay per Kilowatt hour. Multiply that number by the number of Kilowatt hours used in a day. This is your base average daily rate you pay before turning on other devices such as a television. This is what you would expect your daily usage to be if you never turned on any of your appliances.
Monitoring Electricity Consumption Since Last Period
1
Write down the numbers that correspond with the dials on your meter. There should be 4 to 5 dials. If the arrow is pointing between one of the numbers, write down the lower number.
2
Find the last meter reading by looking at your previous period bill or by calling your electric provider.
3
Subtract the last period reading from your current reading. This is how many Kilowatt hours have been consumed this period. Multiplying that number by the amount you pay per Kilowatt hour will determine how much money you owe so far for electric consumption this period.


Friday, November 12, 2010

FILIPINO CONSTRUCTION VERNACULAR TERMS

Let’s put this straight. Did you ever experience conversing to a carpenter or a handy man that turned to a guessing game? Well, it goes like this. I have a problem with my ceiling. During the discussion I will point the ceiling to the guy who will do the work. But after saying the magic word he immediately reacts in split seconds by saying the vernacular term of what I pointed out. Sounds good but, heck never to me.    

I have a defective ceiling.(kisame ser, - the guy) yah! Kisame. The ceiling joist ha. (kostilyahe) what the hell is that? Kostilyahe ser. Ceiling joist? No, ser kostilyahe”

For those who experience these and for those who does not want to look lousy to the work man rather to effectively communicate here are the list of building parts and its Filipino vernacular term.

ENGLISH  -- TAGALOG

POST  -  halige / poste
GIRDER  -  gililan
JOIST  -  soleras
FLOORING – sahig/suwelo
GIRT  - sepo

BEAM – biga
TRUSS – kilo
BOTTOM CHORD – barakilan
TOP CHORD – tahilan
PURLINS  - reostra

COLAR PLATE  - sinturon
FASCIA BOARD – senepa
EXTERNAL SIDING – tabike
VERTICAL STUD – pilarete
HORIZONTAL STUD – pabalagbag

CEILING JOIST – kostilyahe
WINDOW SILL – pasamano
WINDOW HEAD – sombrero
WINDOW OR DOOR JAMB – hamba
OPEN STRINGER -  hardinera

CLOSED STRINGER – madre de eskalera
TREAD – baytang
RISER – takip silipan
HANDRAIL – gabay
MOLDING – muldora

EAVE – sibe
PROJECTION – bolada
FRAMEWORK – balangkas
GUTTER – kanal
CONDUCTOR – alulod

WROUGHT IRON STRAP – plantsuwela
BOLT – pierno
SCAFFOLDING – plantsa
STAKE – staka
PLASTERED COURSE – kusturada

STUCCO or PLASTER  - palitada
SCRATCH COAT  - rebokada
PICHWORK on MASONRY – piketa
VARNISH FINISH – monyeka
SPACING or GAP – biyento

CONCRETE SLAB – larga masa
ALIGNMENT  - asintada
PLUMB LINE  -  hulog
CEMENT TILES – baldosa
CEMENT BRICK – ladrilyo
DOOR FILLET – batidora
GROOVE – kanal
WOOD GRAIN – haspe
PATTERN or SCHEDULE  - plantilya
HINGE – bisagra

PANELED DOOR – de bandeha
EARTHFILL  - eskumbro
MASONRY FILL – lastilyas
ADOBE ANCHOR – liyabe
SOLDER – hinang

SOLDERING LEAD – estanyo









Maiden Post

Maligayang Pagbati! Tuloy po kayo!

That is how we Filipinos greet our guest, a manifestation of our hospitality, our version of the western saying “FEEL AT HOME.” The difference is you can take it literally. To us you can borrow everything. From clothing, slippers, soap, toothbrush if you have a strong immune system, you can even watch TV. — 24/7 while the host serves you an abundant five meals a day. Well, what can I say, why spend too much in a hotel if you have a Filipino friend?

Any way, more than anything, I welcome you all to my blog. It is entitled ANG BAHAY (the House). And for those who are sure to themselves that the content of these will be a review of a Japanese horror film – I apologize. It is sounds one but its not.

ANG BAHAY is a blog intended for Filipino architecture & Life Style. Earlier, I have shared our custom, our way of reaching other people. This is how the blog is intended for, to share our distinct and colonial life style, and how these practices, including the natural factors affect and moulds the Filipino spaces.

Again, MALIGAYANG PAGBATI!